See all the highlights from this season’s presentations.
Paris’ Haute Couture Week was a memorable event. Leading couturiers such as Schiaparelli, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Chanel debuted their most recent renditions of surrealist designs, showcasing avant-garde miracles of technique, drape and shape. While everyone’s attention was drawn to the couture on the catwalk, the beauty looks stole the show at haute couture week.
A standout was Simone Rocha’s collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier, which marked the renowned London Fashion Week designer’s first debut into couture. Chanel, Valentino, and Fendi all showed remarkable collections, and John Galliano’s Maison Margiela display will go down in fashion history. Dior’s Spring/Summer 2024 Haute Couture collection, led by designer Maria Grazia Chiuri, featured varied patterns blended with delicate hues and forms, paying respect to the art of fabrics and workmanship.
Rahul Mishra’s designs were inspired by nature, with detailed details such as insect wings, patterns, and shapes. Chanel’s performance had a romance evocative of Shakespearean ages. Kim Jones, on the other hand, infused Fendi’s most recent collection with a more humanised futurism.
Below, we round up the highlights from the shows and presentations.
SIMONE ROCHA for JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
London Fashion Week designer Simone Rocha collaborated with Jean Paul Gaultier for the couture collection, seamlessly blending the iconic motifs of both houses. The collection showcased backless ball gowns, stunning tulle creations, dresses with dramatic silhouettes, and signature elements such as bows, froth, pearls, and flowers. Sailor-inspired accessories, underwear-as-outerwear, corsets, and Rocha’s chic interpretation of Gaultier’s iconic cone bra also made an appearance.
Creative director Virginie Viard sought inspiration from the emotional connection she feels towards Chanel for this season’s collection. Ballet served as the focal point, reflecting in white tights, ruffled collars, leotards, and lace. Viard emphasised the symbiotic relationship between Chanel and the world of dance, as the house collaborates with choreographers and creates costumes for ballet. The collection exuded an ethereal quality, featuring tulle, ruffles, pleats, and lace while bringing together the strength and finesse of both bodies and clothes.
Returning to Paris for her 16th season of couture and her second season under her namesake brand, designer Tamara Ralph expressed her delight and excitement to share her passion with the world. The collection embraced bold femininity and uncompromising strength, showcasing new dimensions and growth in her creative vision.
Kim Jones drew inspiration from Karl Lagerfeld’s futuristic designs during his tenure as artistic director at Fendi for their latest couture collection. The collection showcased a blend of structure and decoration, emphasizing precision and emotion. Jones also paid homage to the exceptional skills of the Fendi artisans, highlighting the craftsmanship of embroiderers, tailors, pattern-cutters, leather workers, and dressmakers.
Pierpaolo Piccioli found inspiration in the timeless essence of haute couture for Valentino’s collection. The designs incorporated elements from the past while remaining rooted in modern life. The collection represented a modern wardrobe, evoking a freedom of expression associated with a love for true fashion. The house emphasised the obsessive pursuit of perfection and the passion for hand craftsmanship that characterises haute couture.
Dior transformed the gardens of the Rodin Museum in Paris for their haute couture show, presenting a collection of sophisticated and elaborate pieces. Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri envisioned a perfect haute couture wardrobe, blending simplicity with intricate details. The star-studded audience, including Rihanna and Anya Taylor-Joy, witnessed the stunning display.
Elie Saab unveiled a collection inspired by the captivating beauty of a rare Desert Rose. The collection showcased lavish textures and sculpted silhouettes, capturing the essence and rhythm of Marrakesh.