Creative Director Daniel Roseberry looked to house founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s fascination with astronomy for a line of space-ready glamour.
The Schiaparelli Spring Summer 2024 Haute Couture fashion show unfolded in Paris, unveiling a collection that paid homage to Hollywood’s cinematic legacy. Daniel Roseberry, the creative director of Schiaparelli, curated a runway spectacle that seamlessly blended his Texan roots with iconic movie references, making it a groundbreaking event in the world of high fashion.
Setting the tone for the show, Roseberry chose the 20th Century Fox fanfare as the opening soundtrack, followed by excerpts from “Top Gun,” “Alien,” and “Oppenheimer.” This cinematic symphony created an immersive experience, aligning with Roseberry’s passion for film. The show also echoed the recent trend of U.S. designers, like Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton, influencing the prestigious French luxury houses.
The collection drew inspiration from founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s penchant for unlikely marriages, evident in the otherworldly shapes of the initial black outfits. These ensembles featured a glossy black vinyl jacket with inflated sleeves, paired with cropped black pants adorned with cowboy-inspired silver buckles, blending elements of “Matrix” and “Westworld.” The incorporation of pre-2007 electronic waste, such as flip phones and CDs, added a nostalgic touch, with Roseberry reflecting on the changing landscape of technology.
Elsa herself was deeply intrigued by space and astrology, and this collection serves as a homage to her obsession as well as an exploration of contradictions. Creative director Daniel Roseberry explains that the collection celebrates the amalgamation of heritage and the avant-garde, beauty and provocation, and the earthly and the celestial. It is a testament to how seemingly opposite ideas can merge to create unexpected and captivating creations, much like the chimaeras of art and nature.
Commencing with an avant-garde black PVC-style gown inspired by a dominatrix, complemented by an Elizabethan choker, the presentation showcased a captivating exploration of historical contrasts. This contemporary reinterpretation of the choker, fusing the opulence of bygone eras with elements of BDSM aesthetics, revealed Roseberry’s adept talent in seamlessly intertwining art and high fashion with a playful touch.
A particularly noteworthy garment, a 17th-century black cape adorned with rope details, mirrored the provocative elements of BDSM subculture, juxtaposed against a bedazzled neck clasp. Beyond its alluring exterior, the ensemble emphasised Schiaparelli’s dedication to meticulous craftsmanship.
Roseberry’s homage to the fashion house’s founder took centre stage in a pearl suit jacket ensemble featuring tubular, sculptural arms that redefined the conventional human form. Such pieces exemplified his surrealistic approach to classics, staying true to Elsa Schiaparelli’s original visionary style.
The pinnacle of the show manifested in a dramatic black sheer lace top, resembling an insect’s wings with intricate vein-like details, capturing the essence of the house’s surrealist origins.
The collection seamlessly blended Schiaparelli’s glamorous playfulness and exaggerated silhouettes, offering a reimagination tailored for the contemporary age.
Schiaparelli’s Spring 2024 collection transcended the realm of mere couture; after navigating creative explorations in past seasons, the brand, under Roseberry’s direction, consistently challenges audiences with its glamorous frivolity and innovative designs.
The “Schiaparelli” collection showcases an array of haute couture looks that juxtapose traditional techniques with modern elements. Traditional fabrics such as guipure lace, velvet, and fringe are combined with ultra-technological materials like microchips, calculators, and electronic devices. Roseberry’s iconography is also infused into the designs, including abstract references to his home state of Texas, such as hand-painted sequined bandanas and thigh-high fantasy cowboy boots adorned with buckles.
The show was attended by several notable guests, including Jennifer Lopez and Hunter Schafer. Jennifer Lopez wore a stunning custom outfit by Daniel Roseberry, the creative director of Schiaparelli. Her ensemble consisted of a white turtleneck sweater with sculptural details, black leggings, and a coat made of real rose petals with a sun motif on the back. She also sported a new bob haircut and accessorised with a gold belt, a black handbag, sunglasses, and earrings, all from Schiaparelli. She looked elegant and edgy in her avant-garde look.
Daniel Roseberry once again showcased his unique approach to fashion, incorporating personal references and the heritage of the Maison into his designs. This singular perspective, infused with the fascination of haute couture being from another planet, sets Roseberry apart in the world of fashion.
The spring summer 2024 haute couture collection by Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli is a testament to the enduring allure of the unknown. It urges us to look beyond the ordinary and embrace the extraordinary, both in fashion and in life. By bridging the gap between the earthly and the celestial, Roseberry invites us to explore uncharted territories and discover the limitless possibilities that lie beyond our world.