At its heart, Versace’s latest collection presents a captivating contrast, blending a rebellious spirit with subtle sophistication.
Donatella Versace leaned into her rebellious side for the autumn/winter 2024 show, with the designer bringing “a considered wildness” to the collection. This was seen through power tailoring pushed to extreme proportions, “disruptive” draping and deconstructed prints.
If there was any doubt about the magnitude of this event, it was dispelled as models streamed past the crowd in a hypnotic figure-eight pattern, proving that this was no ordinary fashion show—it was a spectacle to see.
The collection is a bold blend of modern formal tailoring interrupted by cut, drape, and ornamentation, capturing the brand’s rebellious character while emitting a warm charm.
Black and red dominate the palette, representing strength and passion and resulting in a visual language that is both aggressive and seductively appealing. These vibrant colours represent the duality of existence, where light and shadow, love and power interact in an eternal dance.
Versace transforms fabric into sculpture with dresses and corsets reminiscent of Roman statues, celebrating poise and grace in a contemporary context. These garments drape the body with folds and contours inspired by classical drapery, blurring the lines between fashion and art.
Despite Versace’s parent company, Capri, being on the verge of being acquired by Tapestry, this collection oozed confidence and strength, representing a watershed moment for Donatella Versace and her legendary brand. Versace spoke at a press conference before the show about rebel females and quiet genius guys, drawing influence from iconic characters such as Siouxsie Sioux and Prince.
Versace pays tribute to its exceptional craftsmanship in this collection by reviving classic tailoring with creative innovation. The use of innovative cuts, drapes, and embellishments introduces a new luxury aesthetic characterised by “considered wildness.”
The collection showcases a diverse array of silhouettes, ranging from commanding maxi-length coats and tailored dresses to the subtle charm of cropped jackets and miniskirts. The dynamic versatility is evident through a mix of sharp pantsuits and broad-shouldered ensembles paired with modern leggings.
The F/W 2024 collection is marked by innovation, as traditional Atelier Versace fabrics are transformed into luxurious tweeds. Leather is meticulously draped to create an illusion of spontaneity in skirts and dresses, while men’s styles feature bonded leather and oversized trousers. The iconic Versace metal mesh is reinterpreted into a lighter form for everyday wear, perfectly complementing distressed denim. The collection is accentuated with golden Medusa buttons, jewel embellishments, and shimmering sequins, adding depth and grandeur to the rich narrative.
The colour scheme of the collection is a story in itself. Bold lipstick red stands out against classic black, interwoven with warm mocha and cocoa hues. The Wild Barocco motif adds a layer of lavishness as a print, knitwear, jacquards, and embroidery, lending each piece an inherent sophistication that is both bold and elegantly understated.
A highlight of the collection is the collaboration between Atelier Versace and ready-to-wear, merging haute couture detail with everyday luxury. Metal mesh column gowns and crystal-encrusted designs exemplify Versace’s meticulous craftsmanship, blurring the lines between couture and ready-to-wear with elegance.
The collection’s story extends to its accessories, with nappa plongé leather bags radiating luxurious softness. The Kleio and Protea bags, along with updated men’s designs, reflect the collection’s fusion of luxury and rebellion. The footwear range, from the elegant Slice heel to the adorned Ballerina styles and bold Texano boots, underline Versace’s commitment to innovation and opulence.
As Milan Fashion Week 2024 concluded, Versace’s Autumn/Winter collection stood as a powerful tribute to a rebellious spirit and luxurious soul. Donatella Versace invites us to embrace our inner contradictions, merging sophistication with untamed spirit, and redefining fashion norms. In the world of Versace, rebellion is an art form, and this collection is its magnum opus.