In a nod to Bohan’s legacy, Chiuri incorporates the vintage Miss Dior logo into her designs, evoking the spirit of youthquake rebellion and student protests that swept through Paris in May ’68.
Since the inception of Miss Dior in 1967, a women’s brand that introduced ready-to-wear, Marc Bohan has committed it to his assistant Philippe Guibourgé. The problem for fashion then was to create garments that could be copied and, most importantly, were appropriate for a pace of life in which creativity was vital.
The collection highlights the forms and materials that, when the Miss Dior shop debuted in Paris, sparked a new manner of wearing that could unify many women while making each one unique. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s favourite accessory, the scarf, is back in style. In everyday life, at work, or on a trip, the scarf is adaptable and small, protecting, enveloping, and adorning as needed. Free and flowing shapes, such as those in the A line, allow for mobility towards new horizons while accentuating the woman’s figure without confining it.
The colours are similar to Marc Bohan’s: white, orange, pink, and bright green, with make-up-appropriate tones. Choice items in double cashmere and gabardine include tiny dresses, slacks, coats, jackets and skirts cut above the knee. The Miss Dior logo is depicted as a manifesto-signature in a blue, red, and brown colour scheme. Beads replace studs, and embroidery creates a striking effect.
One cannot discuss the brilliance of Dior without mentioning the pantheon of celebrities who have fallen under its spell. Natalie Portman and Jennifer Lawrence, esteemed actresses and loyal ambassadors of the brand, graced the runway at Paris Fashion Week, cementing Dior’s enduring appeal across the spheres of haute couture and cinema. Their presence added a touch of unparalleled allure to the collection, emphasising the brand’s ability to transcend boundaries and capture the hearts of women from all walks of life.
But it’s not just Hollywood royalty who amplifies the collection’s splendour. The artistic vibrancy of singer Rosalía, the magnetic allure of K-pop star Jisoo, and the chameleonic prowess of Maisie Williams fuse to echo Dior’s influence across the contemporary worlds of music, acting, and fashion. Their collective narratives of timeless elegance serve as a testament to Dior’s ability to harmonise disparate art forms under the banner of universal style.
This Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 collection showcased a treasure trove of exquisitely crafted power suits, double-breasted tan trench coats, and tailored sets. Each garment was meticulously designed to iconize the Miss Dior line, paying tribute to its undeniable significance in the annals of fashion history. Conceived in 1967 by Philippe Guibourgé, right-hand man to former Creative Director Marc Bohan, the Miss Dior line aimed to make the House of Dior accessible and appealing to younger customers. The affordable sub-label successfully achieved Christian Dior’s goal of bringing the Dior brand to every woman.
The collection was presented around the captivating installation by artist Shakuntala Kulkarni, a celebration of the feminine figure. The ensembles featured numerous khaki-coloured suits, head-to-toe black looks that are often synonymous with French fashion, and lettered designs that mimic a painted-on look. Many of the looks accentuated a cinched waist, a classic silhouette that is inherent to Dior’s brand. Silky and shimmering evening attire was also incorporated into the collection, adding an extra layer of glamour and luxury.
One cannot help but be enchanted by the mesmerising ’20s-inspired flapper looks and exquisitely crafted shapeless evening dresses that graced the runway. While the collection was created to commemorate the ’60s style, it drew inspiration from the ’20s, which had a significant influence on 1960s dressing. This explains the loosely shaped shift silhouettes and the opulent glamour that define both eras. With this Fall/Winter 2024 collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri reignites designs that define Christian Dior’s purpose and spirit, ensuring that the brand’s heritage lives on in every garment.
Chiuri’s elevation of beige as a pivotal element within the collection serves as a canvas that extols the profound elegance of minimalist design. This nuanced palette, which is both serene and statement-making, celebrates the enduring sophistication of the Dior brand. It symbolises Dior’s commitment to a timeless style that transcends fleeting trends and embraces the beauty of simplicity.
Another striking element of the collection is its global narrative. Chiuri expertly interlaces cultural threads from across continents, paying homage to diverse artistic traditions. The incorporation of Shakuntala Kulkarni’s cane art is a vibrant affirmation of Dior’s commitment to marrying time-honoured craftsmanship with modern aesthetics. It is a celebration of empowerment and liberation through fashion, showcasing Dior’s dedication to inclusive and boundary-breaking design.
More than just a runway show, the set for this collection is a narrative landscape that deepens the storytelling woven through the fashion. Inspired by Shakuntala Kulkarni’s installation ‘OF BODIES, ARMOUR AND CAGES,’ it transcends being a mere backdrop, transforming the runway into a dynamic tableau. This fusion of art and fashion explores the interplay of femininity and empowerment, creating a truly immersive experience for the audience.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 collection for Dior is a modern tapestry that seamlessly weaves together the brand’s storied past with the demands of the present. With its revolutionary silhouettes, homage to iconic designs, and global narrative, this collection exemplifies Dior’s ability to remain at the forefront of the fashion industry while embracing the timeless elegance that has been a hallmark of the brand for decades.