Designer Simon Porte Jacquemus has chosen an impressive salt mine located near Arles to present his autumn-winter 2023 collection.
Creative director Simon Porte Jacquemus presented his latest Fall/Winter 2022 collection, “Le Papier.” The collection celebrates the shared affinity that encapsulates France’s vast, otherwise otherworldly Girauld salt marshes, chosen with a desire to highlight places with extraordinary simplicity, a minimal décor whose natural poetry is briefly interrupted by Jacquemus’ creative narrative.
Guests in attendance said that “it almost felt like the collections were presented on the moon.” This location was the perfect backdrop for the pieces presented by the brand.
“The last collections were very Pop,” wrote designer Simon Porte Jacquemus in a recent Instagram story, “now back to something more poetic.”
The show began with a duo of models dancing as they presented the first of 61 looks. The simplicity and elegance of the house prevailed in this collection filled with romantic veils, sheer white gloves and bursts of tulle reminiscent of voluminous wedding dresses.
From there, models continued to present crisp white dresses with sheer materials, khaki and sand pants, brown and cream tailoring, and blue plaid garments.
With an emphasis on artisanal exploration of natural materials, the collection showcased Jacquemus’ ingenious imagination in an all-encompassing harmony. This being Simon’s first runway show since his FW21 Collection in Hawaii, he chose to enter into dialogue with the art of the Giacometti brothers. As true flexible sculptures, the plaster sculptures of Diego and Albert Giacometti were used as artistic references for the collection. Beautifully encapsulating feelings of intimacy, beauty and subtlety within the clothing.
The designer said, “I started working on the collection with the obsession of starting from nothing, like a blank page.” With 61 looks, these pages were soon filled, and the collections presented were a great success.
The collection featured pure white pieces that paid homage to Simon Porte Jacquemus’ childhood. Travelling back in time, the designer transported us to the main colours and fabrics of Provence, to a bygone era, to memories of his grandmother Liline and his shared nostalgic passion for things of the past.
Some top models, from Vittoria Ceretti to Jill Kortleve, wore interesting looks with unusual volumes and overlays.
This season, the lingerie pieces that Jacquemus includes in each of its collections illustrate the fluid contours between indoor and outdoor spaces so typical of Provence.
Delicate and minimalist silhouettes for a woman’s closet were shown accompanied by epic pieces such as the Humara sneaker. Natural colours enhance subtle lingerie details and sensual technical cuts.