In his latest presentation for the French house, creative director Matthew Williams fuses performance with versatility.
Matthew M. Williams presented Givenchy‘s SS23 menswear collection in Paris at the École-Militaire. This collection seeks to transform archetypal garments and accessories through the artisanal and technological possibilities of the Parisian fashion house. Drawing inspiration from subcultural tropes and fluid expressions of community, Williams looks to the musicians and artists that orbit his personal life to create the new collection. Alkaline, the Jamaican dancehall, and reggae artists also became a source of inspiration for this season.
Moreover, the collection featured relaxed silhouettes with simple work wear, loose-fitting blazers and biker-inspired outerwear. Although this runway was characterized by a purely neutral, monochromatic palette, there were also occasional pops of colour and bold prints in mint green and camouflage.
Highly tailored blazers and coats were made from lightweight leather. They were one of the many elements that gave the collection a couture appeal. Denoting a militaristic sensibility, the leather varsity jackets adorned an embroidered logo with a motif identical to Williams’ tarot card leg tattoo. In addition, camouflage motifs appeared on Japanese denim, hand-worn muslin and printed nylon.
Unveiling the collection, Williams said:
“Menswear was, quite naturally, the way I discovered fashion. In my practice at Givenchy, my men’s collections came from an instinctive starting point. This show is a reflection of myself and the men who surround me, from my close friends to the artists who inspired my work. It’s a dialogue with the time and culture that shape the way men dress today and tomorrow: the way new generations embrace and evolve the archetypes and dress codes of the past through their own progressive outlook. It’s a thrilling evolution and the reason I have chosen this moment to stage a stand-alone men’s show for Givenchy.”
Williams had a thing for sculptural footwear made with cutting-edge manufacturing techniques, including the TK-MX runner sneakers, which he introduced along with the collection. It is a mesh and synthetic leather sneaker with a curved sole.
The French fashion house also showcased unique fabrics on the runway, making its tactical vests and cargo pants from a digitally printed waterproof fabric. Very appropriate for the moat-style catwalk.
As for accessories, the models wore the Givenchy’s special G-Cut glasses, chain link necklaces, bracelets and balaclavas.
Another highlight of the collection was the footwear, which included the recently announced TK MX sneakers.
Featuring a mesh and synthetic leather upper, the style came in a range of colourways, from subtle white or black to bold designs in silver and yellow, silver and green, and black and yellow. The collection also updated the TK-360 silhouette with the new TK-360-MID, which featured a taller construction and a monochromatic colourway.