The luxury French maison headed to Lake Maggiore to unveil a mermaid-inspired collection.
Luxury house LOUIS VUITTON unveiled its Cruise 2024 Collection with a fashion show held on Isola Bella in Lake Maggiore, Italy on Wednesday, May 24th. After Palm Springs (2015), San Diego (2022), Rio de Janeiro (2016) and Kyoto (2017), the Maison continued to explore new horizons at a wondrous and dreamlike location. It marked the first-ever fashion event held on the island owned by the Borromeo family and renowned for its Baroque art suspended over the water. As the island sits atop Lake Maggiore, clear aquatic themes were pulled as inspiration in the collection. Taking place in such a monumental location, the collection was equally as opulent — not shy of maximal accessories and creative silhouettes. The was underwater glamour at its essence, with touches of fairy magic—all imbued with a cruise wear perspective.
“Like a shimmering mirage, the opulent allure of Isola Bella lends itself to the scenography through its Baroque beauty and flourishing flora. Imbued with a rich heritage, an enchanting dream forms, transcending time.” – From Louis Vuitton.
The collection itself was a manifestation of Ghesquière’s vision, described as an “archaeology of the future” set in a dreamlike environment. The garments exuded opulence and embraced maximal accessories and innovative silhouettes. Underwater glamour and fairy-like enchantment were key elements, combining a cruise wear perspective with touches of magic.
“A Cruise that gives rise to contemporary tales, populated by drifting creatures that abandon aquatic dwellings for the discovery of terrestrial wonders,” the brand writes in the show notes, speaking to the blend of mystical and surprisingly concrete references found throughout the offerings. “The Cruise 2024 collection is a narrative of transformation. Sartorial characters that renew themselves, each in contact with the other.”
In response to the weather conditions during the presentation, the Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024 collection was designed to withstand the elements. Inspired by the show’s setting, aquatic themes permeated the designs, with waterproof neoprene and references to sea creatures emerging from Lake Maggiore. Pleated fins adorned underarms and necks, models wore goggles as if ready for deep sea diving, and elaborate headpieces and jewel-decorated tops added a regal touch.
The collection aimed to create contemporary tales of drifting creatures exploring terrestrial wonders. As the models graced the runway, Ariel and her sisters came to mind, with sheer dresses and flowing skirts contributing a sense of lightness. The collection also drew further inspiration from the island’s aquatic surroundings, featuring ruffled details reminiscent of fins and fabrics resembling scuba gear. The attention to detail was exceptional, with swirled beading, ornate headpieces fit for mermaid royalty, and floral sequined print dresses that resembled stained glass when viewed from afar.
The Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024 collection also presented a departure from the neutral and hardware-focused aesthetics seen in recent seasons, embracing a lighter and brighter tone. Ghesquière introduced slouchy pastel sweaters with sheer panels, elegant satin draped mini dresses in vibrant jewel tones, and breezy culottes layered with bike shorts. Despite this shift, the designer skillfully incorporated his signature elements into the creations. Cocoon-like tops, lavishly adorned layers, and slope-sleeve blazers all made appearances, but with a relaxed and effortless style that added a touch of sci-fi-meets-Bridgerton cosplay to the overall silhouettes.
“Imagined as a tale of the extraordinary, the collection is open to a myriad of influences, revealing a hybrid elegance of baroque opulence and neoprene. Like Isola Bella, a ship of greenery sailing between myth and reality, Nicolas Ghesquière finds the new balance of a contemporary femininity and ultra-romance in this paradoxical notion.”