With its Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2026–2027 collection, The Call of the Void, Schiaparelli once again proved its ability to elevate couture beyond clothing and into the realm of artistic expression.
Under the creative direction of Daniel Roseberry, the house unveiled a collection centered on uncertainty, intuition, and the creative freedom that emerges when convention is left behind.
Coming off the success of his previous couture presentation, The Agony and the Ecstasy, Roseberry confessed that he initially believed he had discovered a reliable formula for creative achievement. Yet the effort to recreate that success ultimately led him to an entirely different conclusion: creativity does not thrive in repetition or predictability. Instead, it requires experimentation, vulnerability, and the courage to embrace unfamiliar paths.
That realization became the driving force behind The Call of the Void, a title inspired by the French phrase l’appel du vide — the mysterious impulse that draws us toward uncertainty rather than away from it. The concept feels especially fitting for Schiaparelli, a house whose identity has always been rooted in surrealism, spontaneity, and an appreciation for the unexpected.
Roseberry translated this philosophy into a collection that questioned traditional ideas of couture luxury. Moving beyond classic fabrics such as silk, satin, and wool, Schiaparelli incorporated unconventional materials including silicone, latex, and heat-treated paint, transforming them into striking sculptural creations through meticulous craftsmanship.
One of the collection’s most memorable looks featured an extraordinarily realistic silicone corset rendered in a delicate milky blue tone, paired with a dramatic skirt adorned with hundreds of flowers crafted from stretched hosiery, wire, and pearls. The ensemble existed somewhere between fashion and sculpture, perfectly capturing the surrealist essence that has long defined the maison.
Elsewhere, natural flowers, fish scales, and flowing latex embellishments appeared throughout the collection, creating silhouettes that seemed to emerge from a dreamlike underwater world. These unexpected details introduced a sense of movement and transformation, reinforcing the show’s central theme of exploration and discovery.
The color story drew heavily from nature and marine life, pairing lobster pink, vivid violet, luminous orange, and soft mint green with glossy black surfaces and raw ecru tones. Gold, a signature element of the house, remained prominent throughout the collection, appearing in sculptural embellishments that highlighted Schiaparelli’s distinctive approach to decoration and ornamentation.
Roseberry also revisited some of the house’s most iconic design codes. Schiaparelli’s signature jacket was reinterpreted through intricate embroidery and rich embellishment, transforming a familiar silhouette into a dramatic and architectural statement piece.
Accessories further expanded the collection’s surrealist narrative. Updated versions of the Secret bag incorporated floral embroidery and crinoline-inspired elements, while the Bubble shoe returned with futuristic silicone finishes. Jewelry inspired by seashells, octopus tentacles, and sea anemones continued the conversation between fantasy and the natural world that defined the collection.
More than a showcase of craftsmanship, The Call of the Void functions as a reflection on the creative process itself. Roseberry explores the balance between control and instinct, suggesting that originality often emerges when certainty is surrendered in favor of curiosity and experimentation.
Perhaps the collection’s greatest achievement lies in its reinterpretation of luxury. Rather than using silicone and latex as merely provocative gestures, Schiaparelli employs them as refined materials capable of expressing innovation, artistry, and exceptional craftsmanship in entirely new ways.
While some pieces may feel closer to contemporary art installations than traditional garments, this has always been part of Schiaparelli’s identity. The house has never aimed to satisfy conventional expectations; instead, it has consistently sought to challenge and redefine them.
With The Call of the Void, Daniel Roseberry delivers a collection that is both visually spectacular and intellectually engaging, reaffirming haute couture’s enduring ability to surprise, inspire, and expand the possibilities of creative expression.