This year, Milan Fashion Week feels less like a schedule of shows and more like a moment of change.
The city is alive with first chapters, last goodbyes, and a creative energy that proves Milan’s enduring place on the global stage. From Demna’s quiet Gucci debut to Louise Trotter’s anticipated arrival at Bottega Veneta, Spring/Summer 2026 is already unforgettable.
It all began on 23 September, when Demna skipped the runway and instead unveiled The Tiger, a Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn short film for Gucci — a teaser of his subversive vision for the house. The following day, Simone Bellotti made his entrance at Jil Sander, following Luke and Lucie Meier’s decade-long era. Later came Dario Vitale’s provocative Versace debut, fresh from Miu Miu, and most recently, Louise Trotter’s first collection for Bottega Veneta, cementing her place among the rare female voices in this year of sweeping changes.
This Milan Fashion Week is about both legacy and reinvention. As new designers redefine heritage maisons, the city also prepares to honor Giorgio Armani’s unmatched career. His passing earlier this month at 91 lends the week a bittersweet weight, with a tribute show set to close the season.
In essence, Milan is not simply hosting fashion shows — it is witnessing history.
Dolce & Gabbana
At the Metropol Theatre, Dolce & Gabbana staged a dreamlike pyjama party where cinema met couture. The biggest twist was off the runway: the cast of The Devil Wears Prada sequel — Meryl Streep, Stanley Tucci, and Simone Ashley — appeared in character in the front row, sparking excitement (and even a rare smile from Anna Wintour).
On the catwalk, the duo expanded their “Pyjama Boys” theme into womenswear, sending out striped sets drenched in crystals, sheer robes, lace bodysuits, and lingerie-inspired looks. Shoes ranged from plush slippers to skyscraper stilettos. As Meryl-as-Miranda Priestly smirked, the show felt both theatrical and true to the brand’s DNA.
Versace
Dario Vitale opened his tenure at Versace inside the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, reimagined as the aftermath of a decadent night — unmade beds, scattered glasses, ashtrays.
The collection reflected that mood: plunging mini dresses revealing underwear, oversized tailoring in bold hues, and baroque prints colliding with chainmail metallics. Vitale avoided literal archive references, instead channeling Gianni’s rebellious energy. “It’s about the spirit of Gianni, not just the archive,” he said backstage. The debut was daring yet reverent — a statement for Versace’s next chapter.
Max Mara
Ian Griffiths looked to Madame de Pompadour for inspiration in “Rococo Modern,” marrying 18th-century excess with modern Max Mara minimalism.
Trench coats came with sculptural “corona” sleeves, dresses were scattered with organza petals, and floral brocades were tempered with clean tailoring. Hair slicked back with thick black bands nodded to Pompadour’s style. The result was sophisticated, wearable, and quietly commanding — Max Mara at its best.
Prada
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’s latest womenswear collection at the Fondazione Prada explored the tension between uniformity and individuality in today’s algorithm-driven world. Stripping back the set to a stark orange-lacquered floor, the designers framed their vision around the idea of the uniform, reimagined as a source of protection, neutrality, and even elegance. Structured shirts and pleated trousers met playful details like jewel-toned earrings and mock-croc handbags, while flashes of glamour—opera gloves, crystals, and sculptural taffeta—broke through the sobriety. Skirts spliced with ruffles and pleats, as well as draped tops, embodied the designers’ pursuit of “shape without structure.” Ultimately, the collection embraced adaptability and autonomy, offering women the freedom to compose their own identities through clothing, moving away from rigid forms toward a vision of liberation both physical and psychological.
Fendi
For her second season leading both menswear and womenswear, Silvia Venturini Fendi brought optimism and fun. Marc Newson’s colorful block seating set the tone for a collection dubbed “future summer” — playful, eclectic, yet polished.
Looks included toggled pleated skirts, translucent sweatsuits with shearling details, bold woven totes, and a sparkling update to the Peekaboo bag. The collection radiated joy and reaffirmed Fendi’s talent for blending whimsy with luxury.