Demna’s highly anticipated runway debut introduces a fresh creative direction for the iconic Italian house.
During this season’s Milan Fashion Week, one show captured the attention of nearly everyone in the fashion world. Gucci unveiled its Fall/Winter 2026/2027 collection in a presentation that marked the first runway show under the direction of its new creative lead, Demna. The moment represented more than just a seasonal reveal—it signaled the beginning of a new creative era for one of the most influential names in luxury fashion.
Founded in 1921 by Guccio Gucci in Florence, the house has long been synonymous with Italian craftsmanship and distinctive style. Yet in recent years the brand has faced mounting pressure as shifting consumer tastes and a cooling luxury market affected sales. Parent company Kering has therefore been eager to inject new energy into its flagship label, and Demna’s appointment last year was widely seen as a bold step toward that goal.
The designer’s debut collection, titled “Gucci Primavera,” offered a glimpse into how he plans to reinterpret the house’s legacy. The runway environment itself hinted at that dialogue between past and present. Models descended through a monumental set framed by sweeping marble steps crowned with classical statues. The setting subtly echoed the elegance of the Uffizi Gallery, a symbolic reference to Florence, the birthplace of Gucci.
Demna presented a total of 83 looks that combined womenswear and menswear, showcasing a wide spectrum of styles. According to the designer, the collection was meant to represent a diverse universe of characters, identities, and dress codes that will inform the brand’s aesthetic in seasons to come.
The Georgian-born creative, who previously spent ten years leading the design direction at Balenciaga, has built a reputation for challenging traditional fashion codes. Yet in his new role he appears determined to soften the tone while embracing a more emotional approach to design.
In a letter shared with the press and on social media, Demna explained that his vision for Gucci revolves around refinement and feeling rather than intellectual concepts.
“I want Gucci to become lighter, softer, more refined and more emotional,” he wrote. “Sometimes it can even be irrational. I don’t want it to feel overly intellectual.”
That philosophy was evident throughout the runway presentation. Many of the women’s looks emphasized sleek silhouettes and a sensual aesthetic. Low-rise leggings styled as trousers appeared repeatedly, paired with fitted tops and sharply tailored jackets. Mini dresses and miniskirts introduced a youthful energy, while stockings decorated with the signature double-G monogram subtly referenced the house’s iconic branding.
Outerwear added depth to the collection. Faux-fur coats created dramatic silhouettes, while bomber jackets gave certain looks a relaxed and slightly rebellious edge. Stiletto heels completed many outfits, reinforcing the glamorous tone that ran through the show.
Eveningwear was another standout element. Several shimmering gowns appeared toward the latter half of the presentation, catching the runway lights with metallic fabrics and fluid lines. These designs underscored Gucci’s enduring ability to create statement pieces for high-profile events and red carpets.
The menswear portion of the collection offered an equally striking aesthetic. Male models walked the runway in body-hugging tops that revealed toned physiques, paired with biker jackets or oversized leather footwear in bold red and white shades. The exaggerated proportions of the shoes introduced a slightly surreal twist, a signature detail often associated with Demna’s previous work.
Accessories were also a central part of the presentation. Some models carried Gucci’s recognizable cross-body belt bags, which remain among the brand’s most popular contemporary accessories and have become a staple within its modern identity.
One of the most talked-about moments of the show arrived during the finale. Supermodel Kate Moss stepped onto the runway to close the presentation wearing a glittering black evening gown with an open back. The design subtly revealed a thong adorned with the golden double-G logo, a daring detail that quickly became a highlight of the event.
Fashion insiders were quick to draw parallels between Demna’s debut and the glamorous era shaped by Tom Ford during the 1990s, when Gucci experienced a dramatic revival and cultural impact.
According to Gaya Guiragossian, the references to that period were clear. Smoky eye makeup, glossy fabrics, and silk shirts evoked the seductive aesthetic that defined Ford’s tenure at the house.
For longtime followers of the brand, those echoes of the 1990s may signal a deliberate attempt to reconnect with one of Gucci’s most celebrated creative chapters.
The collection arrives at a pivotal moment for the label. Gucci has faced declining sales in recent years, reflecting broader shifts across the luxury sector. According to estimates from consulting firm Bain & Company, the industry has lost tens of millions of customers since the end of the pandemic-driven spending boom.
Consumers have become more selective, questioning rising prices and seeking brands that offer both creativity and authenticity.
In response, Kering has launched a broader transformation strategy. Last year the group appointed Luca de Meo to lead the company’s turnaround efforts and reinvigorate Gucci’s global appeal.
Speaking after the runway show, De Meo highlighted the importance of demonstrating momentum and renewed energy for the brand. He emphasized that the company believes Gucci is heading in a positive direction.
Demna’s appointment itself sparked considerable discussion within the fashion industry. Known for provocative designs and unconventional runway concepts, the designer has consistently pushed boundaries throughout his career.
During his years at Balenciaga, he created viral products such as the Triple S sneaker, which helped redefine the relationship between luxury fashion and streetwear culture. Those creations resonated strongly with younger consumers and generated significant commercial success.
Now, with his first Gucci runway show complete, Demna has taken the initial step toward shaping the future of the storied house. Some pieces from the Fall/Winter 2026/2027 collection will appear in select boutiques and online stores ahead of the official launch scheduled for July 2026.
As the fashion industry reflects on one of the most talked-about presentations of the season, one thing is clear: Gucci has entered a new creative phase. Whether Demna’s vision ultimately restores the brand’s dominance remains to be seen, but his debut has already ensured that the world is watching closely.