Menswear highlights from Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024
Paris Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2024 painted the City of Lights in a kaleidoscope of contrasting hues, where whispers of understated luxury mingled with bold cries of avant-garde expression. It was a week that traversed the landscape of menswear, from the sun-kissed plains of Pharrell Williams’ American West at Louis Vuitton to the intimate salons of Rick Owens’ Parisian abode.
Chitose Abe, the mastermind behind Sacai, transformed the runway into a captivating battlefield of style. Her signature blend of tradition and avant-garde took root in pieces imbued with a dark, utilitarian edge, reminiscent of ancient warriors reimagined for the modern metropolis. Towering round sleeves, channelling the spirit of Japanese samurai armour, stood as the collection’s centrepiece, each crease and curve speaking volumes about Abe’s innovative reinterpretation of historical silhouettes.
Meanwhile, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collection for Valentino skillfully contrasted traditional masculine wardrobe essentials with fluidity, celebrating the emergence of the modern gentleman.
Some of the biggest trends from this season saw attendees sport various silhouettes of the classic overcoat. From dramatic lapels cinched at the waist with a belt to oversized leather blazers, puffers, varsity jackets and technical zip-ups. Hats of all forms were the accessory of the season. Fuzzy hats like the ushanka, beanies, headbands and caps proved to be the perfect accessory to complete the look all while staying cosy.
Below, we wrap up the highlights from Men’s Paris Fashion Week.
Givenchy’s first runway show since the departure of Matthew M Williams unfolded in the historic haute couture salon in Hôtel de Caraman. The collection, designed by an in-house team, paid homage to the duality of Hubert de Givenchy’s public and personal wardrobes. Eclectic offerings included cat-adorned vest tops, synthetic hair fronds, and sculptural hats. Tailoring, often double-breasted and narrow in silhouette, remained a constant, leaving the audience intrigued about the future creative direction of the house.
The latest Prada’s Fall-Winter 2024 menswear collection beautifully captures the essence of our innate emotional connection to the familiar and the cycles of nature. It goes beyond mere fashion, offering a genuine reflection of the environment and the changing seasons, emphasising the authenticity of the outdoors. The designs evoke a desire to venture outside, embracing the world in its raw and natural state. In a society increasingly immersed in artificial realities, the clothes serve as a refreshing ode to the genuine experiences and emotions tied to the ever-changing beauty of the world around us.
Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe collection drew inspiration from Los Angeles-based artist Richard Hawkins, creating a visual spectacle with a mood of irreverence and youth. The collection featured oversized leather cargo pants, chequered shirts, and sweatpants adorned with Hawkins’ vibrant collages. Anderson’s exploration of the idea of collage reflected the way modern life has become a continuous stream of algorithmic images, offering an exciting and dynamic perspective on fashion.
Kim Jones presented one of his strongest outings for Dior, inspired by the Soviet-born ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev. Divided into ready-to-wear and couture, the collection explored the contrasts within the house of Dior, from backstage to onstage. Twisting turbans, wide-tailored shorts, and fluid tailoring showcased a harmonious meeting of the dancer’s style with the Dior archive. The couture looks, presented on a rotating platform, were theatrical expressions of Jones’ vision, capturing the essence of Nureyev’s legendary dance to freedom.
Pierpaolo Piccioli, the creative force behind Valentino, showcased a menswear collection that delved into contemporary manhood through the lens of colour. The ornate salons of Paris’ Monnaie de Paris served as the backdrop for the show, bathed in breezy sky blue. Piccioli aimed to resignify the colour traditionally associated with femininity, presenting it as something fluid. The collection featured softer lines and embellishments, reimagining classic menswear garments with a touch of haute couture influence.
Véronique Nichanian’s three-decade-long tenure at Hermès continued to captivate with a focus on creating garments that please both visually and physically. The menswear show showcased a range of outerwear options, from shearling-lined leather parkas to shorter peacoats adorned with playful utility pockets. The collection also featured a melange of knitwear, layered and adorned with painterly prints. Hermès’ signature accessories, including spacious carry-alls and textured bags, added a final touch of seduction to the collection.
Pharrell Williams took Louis Vuitton to the Wild West in an ode to the American cowboy. The show, set in Paris’ Bois de Boulogne, featured denim chaps, cowboy hats, and Western-style shirts with pearl and sequin adornments. Williams aimed to broaden the vision of the cowboy trope, collaborating with artists from the Dakota and Lakota nations. The collection incorporated Native American designs on Louis Vuitton’s iconic pieces, creating a visual and cultural exchange.