Chiuri remained true to her form by collaborating with local artisans.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior Cruise 2025 collection unfolded amidst the verdant beauty of Drummond Castle’s gardens in Scotland. The show’s haunting bagpipe soundtrack set a romantic and dramatic tone, foreshadowing Chiuri’s vision.
This vision intertwined Dior’s history with Scotland’s rich past. Traditional textiles like tartan, cashmere, and tweed were reimagined into a collection that transcended everyday wear. The clothes embodied a sense of desire and defiance, reflecting the uncompromising spirit of women today.
Classic bar jackets were crafted from unique plaid shawls. Corsets offered a tough, armorial feel, while bodices were adorned with intricate floral embroideries. Black Jacobean velvet evening dresses exuded elegance, some featuring dramatic lace necklines. Dresses crafted from gunmetal and gold lace offered a modern twist on a classic material.
Chiuri remained true to her form by collaborating with local artisans. Johnstons of Elgin provided tweeds and cashmere, Esk Cashmere offered knitwear, Robert Mackie created ceremonial headwear, and Harris Tweed supplied its signature fabric. She even collaborated with Samantha McCoach of Le Kilt for a specific look.
Drummond Castle, a 17th-century estate with its stone staircases, pebbled pathways, and manicured gardens, served as the perfect backdrop for Chiuri’s vision. This locale is steeped in history, echoing the past when Christian Dior himself held fashion shows in Scotland during the early 1950s, including at the nearby Gleneagles Hotel. The castle’s serene and timeless beauty added a layer of depth to the show, creating an almost cinematic ambience that transported the audience, whether present or virtual, to a bygone era infused with modern sensibilities. The presence of celebrities such as Jennifer Lawrence and Anya Taylor-Joy, though notable, did not detract from the scenic splendor.
Bagpipers set the tone, opening and closing the show as models navigated the sprawling runway that wound through the castle’s grounds. The choice of traditional Scottish music was a nod to the locale’s cultural heritage, further grounding the collection in its setting. Chiuri’s inspiration was drawn from Scotland’s rich textile tradition, with tartans and embroideries playing a pivotal role. She collaborated with local artisans, including Harris Tweed and Esk Cashmere, and enlisted the expertise of Le Kilt, a brand known for its contemporary takes on the classic kilt. This melding of traditional craftsmanship with modern design sensibilities resulted in a collection that felt both nostalgic and forward-thinking.
Chiuri’s design ethos often revolves around a singular thematic focus, interwoven with multiple narratives. For the Cruise 2025 collection, she incorporated elements such as black-and-white photographs from Dior’s 1955 show in Scotland, feminist slogans on corsets, and a shawl blanket embroidered with a map of Scotland. These elements served as subtle nods to the past and present, creating a tapestry of references that enriched the narrative without overwhelming the central theme. The clothes themselves remained the stars of the show, with intricate detailing and thoughtful design that spoke volumes.
The collection was a study in contrasts, blending whimsy with punkish ferocity. Rich velvet corsets and embroidered full skirts exuded a sense of regal opulence, while intricately beaded tunic dresses, worn with shorts beneath, added a touch of rebellious modernity. Victorian mutton sleeves were reimagined with contemporary silhouettes, and corsets featured lace-up details and embellishments that made them relevant for today’s empowered women. Delicate sheer lace and open-weave gowns, cinched with black leather belts and paired with rugged country boots, embodied the collection’s theme of bridging past and present, creating a powerful statement about the transformative power of fashion.
Chiuri’s Cruise 2025 collection for Dior was a triumph, seamlessly blending historical references with modern design. The setting of Drummond Castle provided a magical backdrop that enhanced the narrative without overshadowing the clothes. Through meticulous craftsmanship and thoughtful storytelling, Chiuri succeeded in creating a collection that celebrated the enduring power of fashion to evoke emotion, inspire change, and transcend time.